 Jewelry Box #101
Instructions & Tips
Before you start construction please read the safety precautions and go over the parts list that came with your kit to be sure that nothing is missing
or damaged. If you find that something is missing or damaged, please email me and I
will get the required part(s) shipped out to you.
Your first step should be to set up your saw to cut a 45 degree miter, you can make your cuts on a table saw or a miter saw.
Once you have your saw setup cut a couple of scrap test pieces to ensure a good tight square joint and make any necessary
corrections if needed. This step is very important if you want to produce nice joints!
Once you have your saw setup miter one end
of each piece of the box molding (the large 2-9/16" wide molding). I prefer to cut all of my left or right miters first,
then I can setup a stop on my saw fence to cut the final miter on each piece to the proper length (12" for front and back
8" for both sides this is from the thickest part of the molding; refer to your plans). If the front is not the same length
as the back or the sides aren't the same length as each other your box will not be square!
Tip: When setting up your stop for the last miter I like to "sneak" up on the line, I rather have to make two or
three cuts then to cut the piece short on the first cut.
Once you have all of the large molding cut test fit the four pieces. Once you are happy with the joints apply glue,
clamp and/or use small brads or finishing nails to help hold the joints tight and square until the glue dries. Be sure it is
sitting on a nice flat surface and square before the glue sets!
Tip: To check for square measure from corner to corner (diagonally) the measurements will be the same if square, if
not rack the box one way or the other until the measurements are equal.
The next step will be to construct the box lid. The lid consist of four pieces of molding with 3/8" X 3/8" cleats
glued (also nailed if you like) on the inside for the plywood top to sit in. I find it easier to attach the cleats to the molding before
cutting the miters (the only draw back of this method is that when you do cut the miters you will have to use a scrap piece
of cleat against the fence to help support the molding square). If you use nails be sure to keep them away from where you will
be cutting the miters! See next photo below for spacing.
Use the 1/4" plywood to determine the space needed, if you plan on putting a piece of veneer on the plywood you must account
for the extra thickness.
Tip: You are better off if the plywood is just a touch below the molding rather then above. You
can always sand the molding down but if you have to do a lot of sanding to the plywood you may sand off the top veneer.
Once again I like to miter one end of each top molding piece. Place the corresponding piece
on top of the box holding the outside edge flush with the box and the mitered end flush with the edge and
mark the uncut end (red arrow in photo). You can also measure the box and mark the top molding but I prefer
marking the piece in place. Once marked make the mitered cuts, fit, glue and clamp. Once again be sure that
the top is square. You will have a much easier time fitting the plywood top if the molding is square!
Once the top molding is dry measure for the plywood top and cut plywood to size.The plywood should fit
snugly in between the top molding and sit on the cleats. Once you have fitted the plywood glue and clamp square.
Tip: Cut the plywood just a touch (1/32") over size, this way you can lightly sand the edges (place sand paper
on a flat surface and hold the plywood perpendicular to the sand paper while moving back and forth). Another tip is to scribe
your cut line with a utility knife before cutting this will reduce splintering.
Now we can start work on the base, Now you can do this a couple of different ways, you can fit and cut your
mitered joints first then cut the scallop or you can cut the scallop first. If you choose to cut the scallop
first be sure that the saw setup you are using allows you to cut left and right mitered (once scalloped you
will only have one straight edge on the piece).
I choose to cut the scallop first, use double sided tape (or tape the two piece together with regular tape)
to hold the front and back pieces together so you can cut both scallops at the same time, make sure the tops (the edge
with the rabbet) are even.
Make a center mark and either use spray adhesive
or tape the full size pattern to the base piece using the center mark you made to
center pattern
Once again I like to miter one end of each base piece. With the box turned upside down place the corresponding piece
on top of the box holding the outside edge flush with the box and the mitered end flush with the edge and
mark the uncut end. Once marked make the mitered cuts, fit, glue and clamp. Do not glue base to the box!
Once the base is dry cut the 1/4" plywood to fit and glue inside of the rabbets in the base. The base plywood doesn't have
to fit nice and tight like the lid plywood. The edges of the plywood will be hidden once you glue the base
to the box.
Now we are ready to layout for the hinge placement, decide which side will be the front
and place a center mark on the top of the back piece (see arrows in photo). Place a mark 3-1/16"
from your center mark on each side. These marks should be very close to 2" from the inside
of each side piece. These marks will be the outside edge of the hinges.
Place the hinge on top with the outside edge of the hinge on you 3-1/16" mark, be sure the hinge pin is
past the outside edge of the back molding (if the hinge is flush with the outside you will not be able to
to open). Carefully scribe around the hinges with a utility knife (use double sided tape or hold hinge with
scrap piece of wood not your fingers!), now you will have the hinge marked.
Using a 1/2" chisel slowly start to chisel out for the hinge, do not try to remove all of the material
in one pass, take little "bites". The hinge wants to sit in the mortise so that the centerline of the hinge
pin is even with the top of the box molding. You can use a piece of sand paper wrapped around the edge of
a piece of wood to clean up your mortises.
Now we are ready to layout for the hinge placement on the lid, place the lid
on top of the box (have a look and decide what side of the lid you want to be the back). Be sure that
the lid is centered on the box and mark the hinge location on the top.
Place a hinge in the bottom mortise and place the lid on top of the hinge and center
on box, the distance the hinge pin sticks past the lid should be the same as it was for the box, if not
take a measurement and this is the measurement you will use when marking the lid hinges.
Chisel out the top mortises as you did for the box.
Use an awl or drill small pilot holes for the hinges and install with screws
Once you have the hinges installed refer to you plans for the chain layout
and use an awl or drill small pilot holes for the chain screws.
Install chain and make any need adjustments.
Now we are ready to glue the base to the box. Apply glue and center the box on the base
clamp and let dry.
Construction in now complete! All that's left is to apply a finish to your box!
If you used nails be sure all your nails are below the surface and apply some wood putty.
Once the putty is dry sand with 150 grit and then 220.
There are many finishing options out there use what you are comfortable with. I
choose to use an oil stain then polyurethane.
Once the finish is completely dry you may choose to flock the inside of your
box, flocking is available in many colors and is easy to apply, check with your woodworking
supplier.
Here is the finished jewelry box, I hope you enjoyed the satisfaction of building
this beautiful jewelry box!
If you should have any question please feel free to send me an email.
Safety Precautions:
The project plan and this web page is sold for use by woodworking
hobbyists who possess woodworking skills appropriate for the safe construction of this project.
The project plan and this web page have been tested and every effort has been made to ensure accuracy of the drawings,
photos, parts list, dimensions, etc. In the event you locate an error or have a suggestion for improving the plans, I invite
you to email me.
The designer, copyright holder, draftsperson, printer, distributor and dealer do not assume responsibility for injury
incurred by persons who perform the cutting, drilling or other machining, sanding, or finishing operations necessary to build
this project, nor do they assume responsibility for cost of materials spoiled due to errors caused by incorrect measurements,
persons misreading dimensions, etc.
The project plans are sold with the understanding that persons building the project(s) described do not attempt any cutting,
drilling, machining, sanding, or finishing operation, which they do not have the ability to perform safely.
If you do not have the woodworking skills necessary to build the project(s) safely, please return the plans for
a refund within 10 days of purchase.
When preforming any woodworking activities wear safety glasses and take other appropriate safety precautions when
using tools, woodworking and finishing supplies (refer to instructions or owners manuals). Use and dispose of finishing materials, adhesives, solvents and other chemicals
according to EPA regulations and OSHA and other appropriate regulatory agencies. Keep plans, woodworking tools, finishes and adhesives
out of the reach of children.
When building any woodworking project, especially projects which may be used by children, use caution that there are
no sharp or rough edges or loose parts which may cause injury. Homemade woodworking projects are not recommended for children under
3 years of age.
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